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Swapping Stoke with Austin at PSH PDF Print E-mail
By: Stand Up Paddle Surfing Magazine   
Wednesday, 31 October 2007
Austin at Paddle Surf Hawaii
I was talking with Austin yesterday over at the Paddle Surf Hawaii shop in Wahiawa, HI and we were swapping stories about just how much plain old fun stand up paddle surfing is. It's this mysterious thing that although we've been surfing for years, getting up on a stand up paddle surfboard brings back the kid-like stoke that we all felt when we were catching our first waves. It's not an easy to put into words. You just have to experience it for yourself.

If you've ever paddled out past some surf lessons you can probably relate to the thrill that the beginners were feeling while catching their first waves. We share in that thrill because we get the same sensation when we paddle out. It doesn't matter how big the waves are or how many you catch, it's just being out in the ocean, riding some waves, getting buried by the whitewater, doing it over and over again until exhaustion. Then, you sit on the beach with a silly grin on your face that says, "As soon as I can muster the strength to pick up my board again, I'm going back out." That's the stoke...and it never leaves.

Speaking of this, a session comes to mind when there was a small handful of us stand up paddle surfing alone at an outer reef. It was a day when the ocean was flat to the horizon until the set would arrive bringing overhead waves. The set waves were rolling in every 20-30 minutes. To make a long story short, after a long wait, the set came catching us somewhat off guard. It was a sight to see, half were caught inside getting buried in the foam and the other half were paddling like mad to try and drop in only to lose balance and fall off at the last second. When the air cleared and everyone surfaced, it was all laughs and smiles. One of the guys who is also a short boarder said with a smile, "If that ever happened in a regular lineup, someone would have got knocked up. But not here."

Such is the stoke of stand up paddle surfing. It's the beauty of the wave, the constant connection with the movement of the ocean, the untouched surf breaks, the smiles, and good vibes. Peace.
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