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By: Nate Burgoyne
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Wednesday, 12 December 2007 |
Do you ever have one of those days where, the night before you knew you were in for a stellar session the next day, then you dream about it at night, and in the morning the vibe is still there? Today was that day, and I couldn't wait to out on the water. I woke up at 4:00 AM and couldn't go back to sleep so I stayed up watching some surf videos on the web and at 6:00 I was off. The next thing I know, I was paddling out in the dark. I love the ocean at night but that's a different story. For the next 35 minutes, I had sweet session. I was really stoked to further put my new board to the test. The new one is a 9'6" PSH with a pulled in nose and diamond tail. It really a nice ride and today it delivered the down-the-line speed needed for the steep waves.
There were plenty of waves, and then there was "The One". We all know what The One is...it's that one wave that you are looking for from the second your feet leave the beach. The One isn't always the same wave. Sometimes, it's a smooth and open face; sometimes it's a walled up race down the line; sometimes it's a never-ending roller that takes you all the way to the sand. You always know when you've found The One because you are satisfied and would be absolutely content to paddle to the sand, rinse off your board, and take it home. However, more than likely, you'll paddle back out and sit in the channel to watch the other surfers find their One. You have no desire to get back in the lineup because you're just replaying The One over and over again in your head as the sets come through. Today's "The One" was a steep racing right, skimming over the striated water being sucked up the face,... and the sounds of rushing water. Stoked.
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