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HOME arrow EDITORIALS arrow Big Desperate Lumps
Big Desperate Lumps PDF Print E-mail
By: Nate Burgoyne   
Friday, 04 April 2008
I was overdue for a session this morning. It started out as a stand up paddle desperation move because it was really lumpy and bumpy and I didn't see one surfer in the water anywhere. So...I paddled out and to my surprise I caught two nice waves that connected all the way to the channel. The swell was coming hard out of the NE, it seemed, because the usually lineups were all shifted over.  Waves were breaking where the channels usually are, and the rest was kind of choppy and sloppy. My two waves were those bumpy kind that you feel like you're almost going airborne on as you hit the little ramps while crossing the face. Hey, variety is the spice of life and you won't catch me complaining about it. However, as always things started to really clean up when I got out of the water. On the way home, I stopped at another break to see if anyone had gone out, and there were 5 stand up paddlers all alone out there playing in the semi-slop and having a grand old time. The sport is growing like mad over here, but I'll leave that for another post. 
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