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Glassy AM: The calm before the storm. |
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By: Stand Up Paddle Surfing Magazine
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Tuesday, 27 November 2007 |
Another mellow morning of glassy waves and one ride to remember. This morning's surf was averaging 3-5+' (5-8+ faces) and the conditions were near perfect. Tomorrow the swell is supposed to bump up 8-12' (10-20'faces) so today was sort of the calm before the storm. Jay and I were swapping stories about broken leashes and stand up paddling. The pull on the big boards really puts a strain on them. Derek snapped his this morning. We've all had that feeling at some point...pull, pull, pull....nothing...time to start swimming. The ride to remember today was a right, maybe head high. It let me stick five over the nose, walled up, and gave me the 1/2 second I needed to step back and make my turn before it would flip me over. The whitewater pushed me all the way to the channel and it was of those lazy contented paddles back out to where I was before. Peace.
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