Stand Up Paddle Surfing Magazine - Winter Waves with the Paddle Surf Hawaii Crew

Winter Waves with the Paddle Surf Hawaii Crew

By: Stand Up Paddle Surfing Magazine

Thursday, 18 October 2007

A glance back at this morning's wave...a dose of winter love.

Winter made it's first mark with us today on the North Shore of Oahu. It was light winds, glassy conditions, plenty of waves, and with Hawaiian directing traffic and stoking everyone out, it made for an epic early winter session. Most of today sessions was at one of my newfound favorite waves. After about an hour and a half solo session, I was joined by some of the Paddle Surf Hawaii Crew including the legendary big wave surfer Derrick Doerner.

I seem to recall seeing Doerner on a stand up paddle surfboard, I think it was, a few years ago in Haleiwa. We asked him what it was like, and he told us to imagine standing on a basketball for two hours...that's what is was like. It probably was. That was way before the specialized sup surfboards that we have today were available. He was telling me how the other day he loaned his board out to Gerry Lopez at Sunset Beach, and Gerry was so stoked on the board that he wouldn't give it back. Props to Paddle Surf Hawaii for stoking out Gerry Lopez and Derrick Doerner on their boards.

PSH rider Derrick Agaran was charging hard today! He would catch beast of a left and...wave of the day. Then, 10 minutes later...wave of the day...then...wave of the day. The brother has skills and was making impossible sections. It's always a blast surfing with Derrick; always bringing good vibes to the lineup. The wipeouts were heavy and Derrick laughs everyone through those as well.

Surfing definitely isn't only about riding the waves, it's about the paddle out, the drop, the ride, the whitewater, going through the spin cycle under water, taking one on the head, playing in the humbling power of the ocean, smiling through the whole thing, and doing it again.

Thank you to everyone out there who's bringing good vibes and smiles to lineups around the world...and a special thanks to everyone that made this mornings session one for the books. Peace.

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