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Yesterday the Bomb Came to Me: Sheahooo! PDF Print E-mail
By: Nate Burgoyne   
Wednesday, 19 March 2008
Yesterday the bomb came to me and I'm still mind surfing that baby. It wasn't the biggest wave ever but it definitely falls into the BOMB category so I thought I'd share it. About 4:00 in the afternoon, I paddled out for a quick stand up paddle surf session after work. The swell was supposed to be dying but it was holding up consistent 8-10' faces rolling through, but none of those was the bomb. Shortly after I first paddled out, the set waves rolled through and rolled me over. My private cheering section, namely my wife, said that she saw the thing looming over me as I paddled up the face, in her words,  "to take it like a man", until it rolled me over backwards. I think I remember that wave...well, actually I more remember the underwater spin cycle more...but that wasn't the bomb. After getting hammered on the inside for a while, I paddled way to the outside, I'd like to say because I thought I could see something on the horizon, and I got that little guy feeling that says, "hmmm...there may be something big on the way." Sure enough, it was the bomb, and there were at least two of them. They were swinging wide and likely to open up a screaming right. When I saw the first one approaching, I paddled like mad for the horizon, up the face and over the top only to see the second wave of the set about 10-14 seconds away. Wave number one washed everyone in.  Instinct usually says to keep paddling for the horizon, but I stopped.....

....and at that moment, a million thoughts go though your mind..."go", "don't go", "keep padding","turn", "you're too far inside", "you're too far outside",  and this time it finally it came down to "this one's yours man, it the one you've been waiting for just turn around and go for it, and if it's a late take off, that's ok". Since the previous wave cleaned out the entire lineup, there was nothing but smooth water and a blanket of foam way on the inside. I waited, and waited, and waited. It's like every thing goes into slow motion when you're waiting for the wave like that to come.  Then when it was on me, I turned and paddled. Six or seven strokes later, the face of the wave dropped and with two more stokes, I was over the edge.

Fast. Silent. Thinking it would pitch over my head, I stayed right in the pocket as best as I could. It was a long way down and a long way up. A beautiful silence. When the section in front of me began shaping up to a deep water meat grinder, driving with my back foot,  I carried my momentum down the face. I remember looking over my right shoulder a split second after changing direction to see the lip pitching over. Combat stance. That's what Derek Doerner calls it. Hunkered down straight shooting and preparing for impact. The lip landed just behind me and my vision turned completely white with only a flicker of blue sky up and to the right. I'm told that I disappeared completely into the foam.

To my surprise, while in the ball of whitewater, my feet held strong and found an exit which sent me streaking over the white foam of the previous wave until a huge lump of backwash bucked me off. Sweet.  That was the BOMB my friends. How big was it? I never know. My wife says it was double overhead, but she gets paid to say that. Ha ha! Bill saw the wave. I had to leave before he did so I'll ask him about it later today. Regardless of the size, It was a fun ride and I'm sure I'll cross paths with that wave again some time. I don't need the biggest wave, I just want to connect from time to time and make the most of each wave. Sometimes it's a big one and sometimes it's a small one. The swell should be dropping fast to almost nothing by the weekend, so I'll be mind surfing that wave for a long time. Aloha.
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