Advertisement
Subscribe to FREE NEWSLETTER
Name:
Email:

Advertisement
Advertisement
Victory KoreDry Website SUP
Ad space now available! Click here  for details.
HOME arrow GEAR INSIGHTS arrow A Quick Guide to Stand Up Paddle Surfboard Construction
A Quick Guide to Stand Up Paddle Surfboard Construction PDF Print E-mail
By: Stand Up Paddle Surfing Magazine   
Monday, 17 November 2008
    Polyester, epoxy, P/U, popout… stand up paddle surfboards are build with a variety of methods. Many top shapers are even building the same exact shapes with several methods of construction. Which one is best? Each board building method has its own set of strong points. This article will help take some of the mystery out of stand up paddleboard construction so you can make an educated buying decision so you’ll know exactly what’s under your feet when you step up on your next stand up paddleboard.

 

Traditional Polyester (PU) Construction
     This is the standard construction for most custom shaped prone paddle longboards and shortboards. A polyurethane blank, often referred to as PU blanks are hand shaped and wrapped with sheets of fiberglass fabric and polyester resin. These boards are usually built by 3 people, the shaper, the glasser, and the polisher. The shaper uses specialized tools and years of experience to shape the foam blank to the exact specifications for the rider. Next, the blank is handed to the glasser who lays several sheets of fiberglass cloth over the top and bottom of the board and then saturates the cloth with polyester surfboard resin. After the board is shaped and glassed, the board is sent to the polisher who sands off the rough edges, makes sure the rails are just right, and puts that shiny finish on your board. PROS: Custom shape, most shapers have the tools to build one, natural flex in the performance of your board. CONS: For a stand up paddle board, this construction is heavy and prone to ding when you bump it on the car or hit it with your paddle. The foam is open-celled and is prone to absorbing water after getting a ding.

Traditional Epoxy Construction
    These boards are built exactly how a traditional PU board is built except the materials are different in two ways. First, most of the foam cores are a closed cell foam similar what your cooler is made of that you take with you to the beach. Secondly, an epoxy resin is used instead of a polyester resin. PROS: This construction has become the standard for stand up paddle surfboard construction because it is lightweight and stronger than polyester construction. You can still get a custom shaper and your board will be less prone to ding and you won’t need wagon to get it to the beach. Also, some foam cores are somewhat water resistant if you happen to ding your board. CONS: Less natural flex in the board. They are quite stiff, however, many stand up paddlers believe a stiffer board paddles faster. Unless you’re a pro, you probably won’t notice a difference.

Pop-Outs
    The lightweight characteristics and extreme durability, make this is a favorite of many stand up paddlers and board producers. There are many variations on this method of construction. The construction begins when the shaper creates a “plug” for the factory. The plug is a shape that will be exactly reproduced over and over again. A mould is then built for the shape which is then injected with polystyrene foam. The result is a foam core exactly like the original template. This foam blank is then glassed with epoxy resin and fiberglass often with high heat and high pressure thus creating a shell on the board that is more durable than any traditional method of board building. These boards are often finished with a tough skin and painted. The finish usually appears even and plastic-like. Each company has its own variation on this construction method. PROS: There is often a lot of research and development that goes into a board before the plug is made. This means there’s a good chance you’ll get a proven shape. This is generally the most durable construction available. CONS: The shape will not be customized for you. You’ll have to find the board that best fits your weight and riding style. The paint jobs are prone to chipping. It doesn’t affect the strength of the board but paint chipping happens.

Additional Notes:

    Machine Shaping: Both epoxy and polyester blanks are often machine shaped before they are glassed and finished. Basically, the shaper designs the board on a computer and puts the blank into a machine which scrubs out the general shape of the board. Then, the shaper will add the finishing touches to the board by hand before sending it off to the glasser. Machine shaping saves time for the shaper which usually reduces the time a costs to produce a board. It also makes it much easier to get almost an exact replica of your board in the future since it’s stored on a computer file.

    Price Point: All board construction methods are priced about the same.

    Glass Thickness: As you do your research, find out how many layers of fiberglass are going on the top and bottom of your stand up paddle surfboard. Fiberglass cloth thickness is measured in ounces. Lighter glass jobs will be more lightweight and may have a little more flex to them, while heavier glassed boards are more durable and stiff. This applies to traditional and pop-out construction. A super light glass job for a stand up paddle board would be 1 layer of 4 oz. on the bottom and a layer of 6 oz. and 4 oz. on the top. With this, you’ll need to be gentler with your board and will probably get pressure dings on the deck of your board. Pressure dings don’t always affect the integrity of the board but may eventually cause problems. Be sure to have a thick deck pad installed if you get your board glassed light. A heavier glass job would be 2 layers of 6 oz. glass on the bottom and 3 layers of 6 oz. on top. With epoxy resin, this would be a strong board. Some board companies may glass their boards thicker or thinner than this and with reason, so be sure to ask.

     Although this is by no means the definitive article on stand up paddle surfboard construction, now you have some basic knowledge that will help you in making your board buying decision. Happy paddling and remember to surf with respect and safety. Also, feel free to comment or add to this article below.

feed4 Comments
peterchech
January 10, 2010
69.142.146.126

I don't think that the epoxy constructed boards are actually using open celled foam. Or at least, they don't have to. Epoxy and 'glass can go over EPS (expanded polystyrene) foam. This is the type of foam used for insulation in the Northern US and can be found in large pink or blue sheets at home depot.

Mike975
April 24, 2009
67.8.199.183

Are there any useful formulas for computing relative stability of a board? For example, it would be nice to know if a particular board 26" wide might have characteristics that would make it about as stable as a different board 30" wide (based on thickness, length, weight, volume, rocker).

nate
February 17, 2009
70.95.73.90

Aloha Gui! In the early days of using epoxy resin to build boards, it was assumed that if a board was "epoxy" it was a "popout". The two words were used interchangeably. If someone were to say, I have an epoxy board, it was generally understood that the board was something along the lines of Surftech Tuflite or Boardworks technology which are clearly epoxy. They have that opaque almost plastic looking finish to them.

However, epoxy surfboards are also shaped and glassed following traditional PU board building principles. Cut and shape the blank, then glass it. When it's finished it looks just like a traditional PU board with the differences being 1) the blank is a closed cell foam similar to drink coolers and 2) the resin is epoxy resin instead of polyester resin.

They are glassed the same way as a PU board: laying several layers of fiberglass on top and smoothing it over with resin, epoxy resin.

From a distance, you probably couldn't tell a hand glassed PU board from a hand glassed epoxy board.

If you were to compare the two, epoxy glassed boards are lighter, more ding resistant and generally more rigid. However looking closely at both PU and epoxy boards on on the rack, you would see the same fiberglass cloth. If you look really close you might see the difference in the foams, one being open cell (PU) and one being closed cell beads (epoxy).

GUI
February 17, 2009
189.68.213.68

Where do I find more articles about boards construction? And what about those boards you see that doesn't look like epoxy boards, more like normal PU POLI construction but has a stamp in the glass saying (epoxy glass). Is that just some reforcement layers ?

Nice article its really simple but really usefull.


Write comment
 
 
quote
bold
italicize
underline
strike
url
image
quote
quote
smaller | bigger
 

security image
Write the displayed characters


busy
 
< Prev   Next >
Twitter Facebook RSS
4-Way Stretch Boardshorts

Copyright 2007 Stand Up Paddle Surfing Magazine. All rights reserved worldwide.
Terms and Conditions of Use - Privacy Policy - Site Map - Contact Us - Advertise
Web Design by Integrity Online Marketing