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Stand Up Paddling on Chocolate Velvet Waves |
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By: Nate Burgoyne
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Saturday, 13 December 2008 |
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Against all common sense and amidst the floods causing havoc on the North Shore of Oahu, in an attempt to rest my mind from the challenges of the week, I paddled out in the pouring rain for a solo stand up paddle session on chocolate velvet waves. The driftwood was piled up on the shoreline and the waves lapped up on the sand on an otherwise deserted beach. The rain came down in sheets as I held my board over my head in an useless attempt to stay dry. The rain was warm and the wind was cool. Finding a calm place to put my board in the water, I climbed on, pushed off from the shore and I was at home again on the ocean. I love surfing in the rain. The energy of the water beneath my feet, wind blowing from the side, and the sheets of rain coming from above culminates in a surreal carpet of mist covered waves and a serenity beyond description. Stoked when it's sunny and stoked when it rains. Peace.
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